A N D R E S J A R A B O
Reviews of top spanish red wines
INTRODUCTION
The Spanish wine scene is
overwhelming. Thousands of interesting wines, some of them among the
best in the world. I taste 400 of them every year. Most are good, a few
unforgettable. I taste at the Spanish Wine Tasting Association and run
The Old Madrid Tapas & Wine
Tour.
First of all, it is essential that we use Victor de la Serna's words to
shed some light on the Spanish indigenous varieties:
"1) Spain has four native
red varieties that should be placed among the greatest ones around:
tempranillo, garnacha, monastrell and mencía,
and
2) there are three dominant
native varieties in Eastern (Mediterranean) Spain, each with more than
50,000 hectares under vines. They are, from north to south, garnacha,
bobal and monastrell. Obviously, the one which has practically not
traveled abroad except for its minor presence in Sardinia (as bovale di
Spagna, not bovale sardo, BTW), is not in the same upper class as
garnacha and monastrell. But bobal, whose rusticity
and spiky tannins are undeniable, does belong in the second
tier of Spanish red varieties along with such
cultivars as cariñena/carignan, graciano, prieto
picudo and others. These are, like their counterparts all over
the world, not as distinguished or as complete generally as other, more
famous varieties, but, under the right conditions, they may produce
wines of undeniable greatness (for instance: old vines and poor, slate
hillside soils in Priorat in the case of cariñena.) Possibly someone
will one day make a great wine with bobal."
EXTRAORDINARY WINES (ALPHABETICALLY
ORDERED)
Baron de Chirel 2001 tasted in 2010
intensity A wine so intense so
powerful and complex in the nose the palate and the finish that it
almost cloyed my senses!
Casa Castillo Pie
Franco 2000 tasted in 2008 Berry jam . Till
the day I tried this wine I had always found the wines made with
monastrell tasty but hard to drink. One glass was more than enough. I
could have a whole bottle of it. But more important, the delicious
berry jam nature of this wine is still vivid in my memory. I recently
tried 2003 and although the wine was very good I did not like it as
much as 2000. There were no sediments but neither the berry jam
sensations :-(
Cims de Porrera
2001 tasted in 2006 Cariñena
grape This wine is the paradigm of how a second tier
grape variety under the right conditions (old vines and poor, slate
hillside soils in Priorat) can result in a first tier
wine.
Cims de Porrera 1996 tasted in 2010 HUGE
One of the best wines I have had in my life. I have never had
so fruity and sweet tannins ever before. A wine made by Gods. What a
shame that Vall LLach and Martinet sold the winery to Perelada, they
were coming up with a blast of a wine. If you have the chance to taste
it do not miss it by anything in the world.
Cúlmen de Lan
2001 tasted in 2006 Lan's flagship Velvety
texture supported by ripe, well integrated tannins and plenty of sweet
toasty oak. Plum and blackcurrant fruit. Very expressive, yet with
great concentration. Mineral and tobacco notes add complexity.
Finca Dofí 1998 tasted in 2010 elegance
Lacks and intense nose but the taste and finish are
outstanding good and long.
Finca Sandoval 2001
tasted in 2010 highlight of a night out nose
of rubber, it brought me back to my youth of zodiac excursion in the
Mediterranean sea. Palate of blackcurrants, tasty and very long. The
wine has not been filtered, therefore the soul is
intact.
Gran Tábula
tasted in 2010 Intensity Out of the wines that I
tasted on that evening: Maria de Alonso del Yerro 2006, Cruz de Alba
Crianza 2005, Conde de San Cristóbal 2005, Cepa 21 2005, Astrales 2005,
Aalto 2005, Ferratus Sensaciones 2005, Bohórquez MMII Reserva 2004 and
Chafandín 2004 it was the only one that was able to get through a nose
and a palate numbed by flu. Perhaps it is not the most complex wine in
the world but the aromas, the the body and the taste of the wine will
wake you up. Superb grape quality, very little filtering and people who
know how to make wine. Price a little steep though: 36
euros.
Hacienda Monasterio
Reserva 2001- tasted in 2009 Magnetic elegance
Extraordinary blend of Tempranillo-80% and Cabernet Sauvignon-20%.
There were other heavyweights in the tasting but I kept going to the
Hacienda Monasterio. I did not get tired of tasting it over and over
again, magnetic!. But it did not stop there, I have been thinking about
it since. So far, the best red wine I have had in 2009. I would like to
get a few bottles and see how it goes with certain dishes. If I do
enough trials I know I ll run into an unforgettable pairing. I have
also tried the Reserva 2007 but it was not that good, I suppose it was
probably too early, this wine needs years of bottle aging. I 'll stick
my neck out for this one as long as Peter Sisseck is
there.
Imperial Reserva
2001 - tasted in 2009 Good value! Pretty
impresive for a 18 Є wine. Complex, intense nose of ripe fruit,
vanilla, cedar and something that reminded me of some kind of petrol
by-product or burnt rubber. On the palate it was like so many
traditional Riojas, that is, medium body and neither fruity nor tasty.
My surprise came when paired with suckling lamb somehow the wine
changed. It became deliciously fruity reminding me of ripe fruits of
the forest, a miracle in front of my tounge.
Malleolus 2000 tasted
in 2009 Fruit fruit fruit and more fruit Massive
amounts of top-notch fruit. A plunge into a sea of tempranillo, thick,
red, tasty juice. This is the wine I have liked best from Emilio
Moro.
Negre Franc 2006 tasted in 2010 Made by Celler
Pardas this is the only wine I know made with Cabernet Franc, in Spain.
I think this is the healthiest wine I have ever drunk. Full of tanins,
colour and fruit. The wine has not been filtered and it tastes to me
more like an alcoholic blackcurrant juice than wine.
Nogal 2004
tasted in 2010 nature let loose Local yeast, low
yield, no treatment of any kind and no filtering result in a wine rich
in sediments but also in flavor, aromas and complexity. I want to taste
it again, this is my sort of wine.
Pago de los
Capellanes tinto Reserva 1999 tasted in 2009 Top-notch
Another great wine from Ribera del Duero. Intense, deep and
full of ripe berries.
Pesquera Millenium
2001 tasted in 2006 perfume made with grapes
The notes of orange skin are breathtaking.
Quinta Sardonia 2005
tasted in 2009 DENSE A treat for the dark and
chewy wine lover. Tons of blackberries, plums and chocolate. I liked it
as much as the Pingus 2007 but considering the price difference (about
700 euros) the Quinta Sardonia was a real discovery. It was my favorite
wine on that tasting what is a lot when one considers who the other
wines were: Clos D'Agon Tinto 2007, Hacienda Monasterio Reserva
Especial 1995, PSI 2007, Flor de Pingus 2007 and Pingus
2007.
PF 2008
tasted in 2010 Atypical Everything about this wine is
unusual, the grape (bobal), the colour (shiny violet), the nose and the
palate. I like what Juan Antonio Ponce is doing in
Manchuela.
Pingus 2007
tasted in 2009.Perfection Happy I
tried it before kicking the bucket. This wine reminds me to the perfect
mechanish of a Swiss watch. You can feel the hours of work behind it to
achieve perfection. Worth trying if you can afford the
price.
Raimat Cabernet
Sauvignon Vallcorba Reserva 1994 tasted in 2009
Longevity Mild reduction aromas are in a matter of
seconds substituted by a subtle perfume. Tasty, balsamic, pleasant
tanins and a long finish. A fifteen year old wine that defies the
clock, there is not a single sign of the deteroration.
San Román
2004 tasted in 2007, 2008 and 2009 El Toro We
met for the first time on a tasting led by Eduardo Garcia. There were
others in that tasting: Mauro 2005, Prima 2005, Astrales 2004, Paixar
2004, Condita 2005 and Ramiro 2003. All of them were good but there was
a general agreement that San Román 2004 was a blast and that a few more
years of bottle aging could result in an extraordinary wine. Seductive
bouquet of cedar, incense, plums and blackberries. Deep and sweet, with
powerful dark berry liqueur flavors underscored by strong oak
spice.
San Vicente 2001 tasted in 2010 Euguren
family at their best Fascinating wine that changes in the
glass with every breath. It starts smelling of blackcurrant jam.
Sierra Cantabria
colección privada 1998 tasted in 2009 Moroccan
spices reduction aromas are fastly substituted by a hard to
describe aroma. All I can come up with is: berries compote. But on the
palate is a different story. As any superb, aged for a decade, old
fashioned Rioja the spices notes are overwhelming. It felt like
stepping in a Moraccan spices shop in Marrakesh. Medium body, tasty and
long and pleasant finish.
Vall LLach 2000 and 2001 tasted in
2010 One of the four pillars of Priorat The 2000 was a
little bit strange with a nose of mustard and chucrut, still a great
wine. The 2001 has much more black fruit and it is tastier and with a
longer finish, a real blast.
Viña El Pisón 1995
tasted in 2009A wine not from this world I
like Artadi and I have no doubt it will be a
world-leading winery as long as Juan Carlos López de
Lacalle lives. Viña El Pisón strikes 98 points with Robert Parker when
it doesn't a 100. Only to say that this wine is different from the
rest. As different as a hand made Ferrari is different from your Ford.
The colour is different from the other wines as well as the bouquet,
the taste and foremost the texture. I see this wine as the happy
encounter between out of this world grapes and hands of an out of this
world enologist - Juan Carlos López de Lacalle
Viña Sastre Pago de Santa
Cruz 1999- tasted in 2009 Miraculous Living prove
of why decanting to allow breathing can be wrong. If you do so with
this wine you might miss witnessing a miracle. The wine had just being
opened and poured into my glass. I already noticed a herbal smell that
I could not put a name to. The bouquet intensity was dissapointing and
so I decided to let the wine breath. It was not till 5-10 minutes later
that I gave the Santa Cruz a second try. And then I was witness to a
miracle. The faint herbal smell had become an intense
spear-mint chewing-gum aroma also noticeable in the aftertaste. Spooky
and fascinating. I would only like to have the bio-chemistry knowledge
to understand how this is possible. I recommend the following wines
from the Bodegas Hermanos Sastre: Regina Vides, Pesus and Pago de Santa
Cruz.
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